Disc and Drum Brake Restoration

Even when in top working condition, a classic car's brakes are inferior to any modern brake system. It's important to have them in peak condition so your old car can stop safely.

Drum Brakes

Drum brakes may not be high-tech, but that's what stopped most cars from the 1930s to the 1970s. If you have never changed brake shoes before, a good idea is to do one side at a time. This way if you get lost, you can use the other size for reference.

Read: Overhauling Drum Brake Systems

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Tools Needed

Repairing drum brakes properly requires a few special tools.

Read: Drum Brake Tools

To remove the wheels, you'll need either a lug wrench or ratchet/impact gun with proper sockets.

Supplies Needed

Anti-seize lubricant

Liquid Wrench or similar lubricating oil

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If your classic car is mostly for show, the stock front drum brakes will suffice. But if they're in need of a complete overhaul, now's the time to think about upgrading to front disc. And if you're adding horsepower, it really becomes a necessity.

Front Drum vs Front Disc

One of the most popular classic car upgrades is a front drum to disc brake conversion.

Pictured: Complete Drum-to-Disc Brake Conversion Kit sold by Summit Racing. The kit includes power booster, master cylinder, rotors, calipers, spindles/brackets, brake hoses, wheel bearings, seals, and hardware.

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Rebuild or Replace Wheel Cylinders

Through years of sitting, wheel cylinders in an old car will start to leak. Although it is usually faster to replace one than rebuild one, there are several reasons for rebuilding a wheel cylinder. The first is the quality of replacement units.

Most of the new wheel cylinders you see advertised are made overseas, and they were designed to be manufactured as cheaply as possible. If your original cylinders are safely rebuildable, this is always a better choice. Rebuilding wheel cylinders is generally cheaper than replacing them, but it does takes longer.

Read: Rebuild Wheel Cylinders

If you inspect your brakes regularly, a leaking wheel cylinder may be caught before any damage is done. If more than a few drops of brake fluid get onto your brake shoes, the shoes should be replaced.

Sometimes you'll need to repair or replace a wheel cylinder because of a broken bleeder screw. It may have sheared off while trying to loosen, or perhaps it's so old and deteriorated that opening it isn't possible. This makes replacement a better option.

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Steel Lines

Being exposed to moisture, grime, snow, and road salt, steel brake lines are vulnerable to corrosion. Check that there isn't any corrosion or rust on them anywhere.

Read: How To Make Brake Lines

What Is NiCopp Tubing?

NiCopp (nickel copper) brake line is made from nickel copper alloy. It is 90% copper and 10% nickel, and often referred to as 90-10 copper. Because of it's make-up, it does not corrode like steel lines, and may likely outlast the vehicle.

NiCopp meets international and U.S. requirements for brake tubing (SAE Standard J1047 and ISO 4038). It has been in use on European cars such as Porsche, Volvo and others.

Shop: Copper-Nickel Brake Line Kit, 1/4" x 25'

Shop: Copper-Nickel Brake Line Kit, 3/16" x 25'

Steel vs NiCopp Brake Lines

NiCopp brake tubing is easier to bend and flare than steel brake line, but it is also easier to damage during installation. It is also more expensive.

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Inspection and Maintenance

All hydraulic brake systems are prone to failure, simply from age and mileage. Even if they feel right, they should be inspected periodically.

Check calipers and wheel cylinders for leaking fluid. Also look for swollen brake hoses and rusted steel lines.

Check old brake fluid for high moisture content.

Similar to engine oil being changed, brake fluid needs to be changed periodically, or it could contaminate other parts. A quick look in the owner's manual shows manufacturers' recommended maintenance of replacing brake fluid at is at least every three years.

Read: Best Brake Fluid For Classic Cars

Rubber Hoses

The flexible rubber brake hoses under your old car dry out and crack, causing a leak or a soft pedal. Bend each line and check to see if you see any cracking in the rubber that opens up. If in doubt, replace them.

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